Flea Control

Archive for the ‘flea control’ Category

Owning a pet is not cheap. With the cost of food, health checks, vaccinations, heartworm control, intestinal wormers and flea control, it really starts to add up. This can make it tempting to look for cheaper options. You might buy the budget food, and maybe try using some parasite control products from the supermarket instead of from the vet clinic. Unfortunately, as with most things, you get what you pay for. And in the case of flea control, you might end up spending a lot more than you intended if you use a product containing permethrin on your cat.

You know how natural flea control enthusiasts go on about the toxic potential of flea control products? I would bet that 99 times out of 100 they are talking about permethrin. In my time as a veterinarian the only serious intoxications I have seen in pets due to flea control have been caused by permethrin. 

Permethrin belongs to an insecticide class called synthetic pyrethroids. These chemicals are essentially a man-made copy of pyrethrum, which is a natural insecticide extracted from Chrysanthemum flowers. This chemical binds to the sodium channels on nerves and results in repetitive nerve discharges. This essentially causes the insects to have a seizure. Unfortunately, insects aren’t the only ones who can get seizures from these products. 

Permethrin is found in shampoos, dips, foggers, spot-ons and sprays for use in dogs and cats.  Permethrin is generally pretty safe in dogs, the exception being that small dogs can sometimes have an issue. In cats, however, permethrin can be quite dangerous. 

This is where the trouble starts: dog products containing permethrin have a much higher concentration of permethrin than cat products. Applying a dog product to a cat is almost always the reason cats get sick from this drug, because it overloads the cats detoxification systems. 

The difference in toxicity between dogs and cats can be explained by some differences in the way that their livers process toxins. The main issue with cats is that they are very inefficient at a metabolic pathway called gluconuride conjugation. This is an important pathway used to metabolise various toxins including permethrin. 

Signs of permethrin toxicity include shaking and tremoring, vomiting, salivating, and in severe cases, seizures. These symptoms can lead to severe side effects such as hyperthermia (overheating) and even death. 

If your pet develops any of these signs after applying a permethrin-containing product, it will need immediate veterinary attention. If the signs are only mild, you can try to wash the product off with some mild detergent before rushing to the bet, but if your cat is seizuring then you have to get to the vet as soon as possible. 

Your veterinarian will give your cat some medications to help reduce the tremoring and treat any seizures if present. They will most likely need to stay at the vet for several days while they process the toxin. In severe cases they may die despite veterinary attention.  Regardless, you are probably looking at a fairly expensive bill at the end of it all.

When you consider using cheaper flea control products, you are taking a gamble on two counts. Firstly, will this product even work? Most veterinary flea control products have undergone extensive testing to prove that they work in the real world. Some of the cheaper products can’t make this claim. Secondly, you are taking a gamble that you won’t poison your pet. A cat doesn’t even need to have the product directly applied to get sick – all it takes is close contact with a dog who has been recently treated. 

Ultimately, it comes down to what you are willing to risk. Do you really want to put your pet’s health at risk for the sake of an extra few dollars?

Technorati Tags: flea control, flea treatment, permethrin, toxicity

A lot of people will stop their flea control during the winter months. They figure that since fleas need warm temperatures to breed that you are pretty safe during the colder months. Unfortunately they couldn’t be more wrong!

It is true that the majority of fleas and flea eggs that are caught outside will die off during the cold winter months, but not every flea will die.

Fleas don’t have a calendar. The don’t see that it is August and it is the middle of winter. All they know and understand is the temperature and humidity of their microenvironment. For most dogs and cats, this microenvironment includes your house.

Unless you are really energy conscious (or masochistic), I can bet that your house does not reach the same temperature as it does outside. If your house is as cold as the outside temperature, then I feel sorry for you and you have bigger problems than a few fleas. The rest of us with heated houses are unknowingly providing a perfect environment for fleas inside the house.

If the temperature in your house remains somewhere in the 20 degrees celsius range during winter, then fleas will keep breeding all year round. It might take them a little bit longer than it would in the summertime, but they will still breed.

So if you stop you flea control thinking you are safe, then you are setting yourself up for disaster. Small (or large) numbers of fleas will continue to survive and breed, setting themselves up nicely for a population explosion in the springtime.

Don’t set yourself up for a springtime flea disaster. Continue your flea control efforts all year round and you will be rewarded.

Technorati Tags: flea control, flea treatment, fleas in winter

Deadly nightshade is natural - but would you give it to your pet?

Natural flea control is very popular. Just do a search on google and you can see how many different products are out there which claim to work against fleas. I’m sure that some of them do have some effect on fleas, but I doubt there is any natural flea control product that can compete with one of the veterinarian-only flea treatment products.

Why am I against natural flea control? Mainly because of the huge number of cases that I see at my vet clinic who use “natural flea control” but are still covered in fleas. On the other hand, the number of cases I see using a registered flea control product who are still having flea problems is almost non-existent. When they do have a problem, it is usually because they are not using the product properly, not because of any problems with the product.

But aren’t we poisoning our pets by using these products? You might be surprised to find that most of the registered flea control products have very wide safety margins. All of the major brands have several studies where animals have been given large doses of the product, and have shown little to no ill effects.

The same cannot be said for some natural products. For example, pennyroyal oil is known to be very toxic to dogs and cats when applied directly to the skin. And garlic, another common flea control agent, contains thiosulfate, which can damage the red blood cells and cause anaemia.

The other main reason to use a registered flea control product on your pet is because they actually work. One of the reasons that I recommend products like Frontline Plus, Comfortis, Advantage and Revolution is because all of the manufacturers of these products have published studies which prove the effectiveness of their products. The same cannot be said for natural flea control products, where anyone can make pretty much any claim they like without a lick of evidence to support it.

When it comes down to it, the choice is up to you. Do you want to use a synthetic product that actually kills fleas and prevents flea infestations, or would you rather use something natural, and  have something that has little or no effect on fleas but makes you feel good because it is “safer” for your pet?

To a flea free pet!

Dr. Simon

photo: BurningQuestion

Technorati Tags: control fleas, flea remedies, garlic, natural flea control, pennyroyal oil, thiosulfate

I thought I had seen just about everything that anyone can use for flea control. But some people will surprise you at the lengths they will go to ignore the stuff that actually works, and try some random treatment instead.

Dr V. at the pawcurious blog recently had a patient come in whose owner had decided that mayonnaise was the next big thing in flea treatment. How or why they thought it might work is beyond me.

It did nothing for the fleas, and the poor dog ended up itchy, greasy and smelly.

If you have a flea problem, sitck to the tried and true methods. There is a reason that we use them.

Check out the post here: fleas and novel ideas not to try

Photo: The Vista Dome

Technorati Tags: errors, flea control, flea treatment, mistakes

When we think of fleas, we usually think of the discomfort that they cause our pet dogs and cats. But fleas can also cause humans trouble too.  Just check out this photo of flea bites on a human’s foot.

Flea allergy dermatitis just basically means that you are allergic to the saliva of the flea. It most commonly is seen in dogs and cats, because they are much more likely to have flea infestations than humans.

However, when flea infestations are really bad (or there are no animals to jump onto), fleas will quite happily jump onto a human for a meal.

Now don’t panic – the cat flea cannot complete its life cycle on a human, so you won’t have your own flea infestation. But the bites can certainly be itchy, and they may possibly be infected.

If you notice any bites like these on your feet or anywhere else on your body, it is worth giving your dog or cat a very thorough check over for fleas.

If you find a flea or flea dirt on your pet, then you need to start treatment straight away. As long as there are fleas in the environment they will jump onto you and your pets to have a meal.

Whatever you do, don’t send the pets outside if you find fleas on them! This will only leave you and your family for fleas to feed on, making the problem worse.

Instead, treat your pet and let the fleas come to them (they prefer dogs and cats over humans). Make sure to treat every pet and keep treating every month.

If you do have itchy bites like this on your feet, it is also probably worth a visit to your doctor who may be able to give you something to stop the itching and swelling.

To a flea free pet!

Dr. Simon

photo: jebb

Technorati Tags: flea allergy dermatitis, flea bites, flea control, flea treatment

Fleas are are no fun for pets or owners. You want to get rid of them, and the faster you can do that the happier you and your pet will be. Today I am going to tell you which flea control product kills fleas the quickest.

Why is fast speed of kill important? Well, it takes around 48 hours for fleas to begin laying eggs once they have started to feed. If we can kill the fleas before they can lay any eggs, then this will break the life cycle and fix your flea problem faster.

In a study done by Dryden, Smith, Payne and McTier in 2005, selamectin (Revolution), fipronil-(S)-methoprene (Frontline) and imidacloprid(Advantage & Advocate)were compared to see which flea treatment product kills fleas the fastest. They were tested for speed of kill at days 2, 7, 14, 21 and 28, to simulate what would happen over the course of a monthly flea treatment.

Following initial application, imidacloprid was the only product to cause significant flea reduction in 6 hours.  By 24 hours of applications, all three products had killed at least 96.7% of fleas on the pet. So basically, after a day, almost all of the fleas on the pet will be killed regardless of which product you use.

One week after treatment, all three products were still going strong. Each product reduced flea populations by around 70% in 6 hours, and had killed 99.4% of fleas in 24 hours. This is good – no fleas are living long enough to lay eggs and reinfest the environment.

Three weeks after initial application, the speed of kill for all the products had decreased significantly, with none of the formulations killing fleas within 6 hours.  At 28 days after treatment – selamectin killed 99% in 48 hours, fipronil-(s)-methoprene killed 86.4% within 48 hours, and imidacloprid killed 72.6% within 48 hours. This is where things start to drop off, which is why these products need to be used monthly.

From these results, we can see is that there is no real difference between any of the products for the majority of the time. Imidacloprid gets a jump start on the other product and starts killing fleas sooner, but by 24 hours they are mostly the same. At the end of the month, selamectin has the most staying power, still killing 99% of fleas before they are able to breed.

Interestingly, another study (McCoy et al, 2008)- showed that Revolution is more effective than Frontline Plus and Advantage in reducing the amount of blood consumed by fleas.

In reality, it doesn’t matter which of these products you use. They are all excellent products and will do a much better job of killing fleas than any flea shampoos, flea collars, flea powders or natural flea treaments.

To a flea free pet!

Dr. Simon

Technorati Tags: advantage, advocate, fipronil, flea control, flea treatment, frontline plus, imidacloprid, revolution, selamectin

Baby kittens are at a high risk of becoming ill when they have a flea burden

Everyone knows that flea infestations can be bothersome and irritating for your pet, but most people don’t realise that a heavy flea burden can actually be lethal in some circumstances. If you have a young puppy, kitten, or older pet, then they could be at risk of much worse than a few itchy bites.

Fleas, like mosquitoes, are blood parasites. Individually they only drink a small amount – average of 13.6 microliters (+/- 2.7 microliters) of blood per day. That doesn’t sound like much, but 100 fleas will drink 1.36ml of blood per day. In adults, this amount is a mere drop in the ocean, but for a 500g kitten with only 35ml of blood in total, that is a lot (3.8% of their total blood volume per day).  When you are losing that amount of blood, it doesn’t take long to get very sick.

Young puppies and kittens are at the highest risk for flea anaemia. Outdoor puppies and kittens are especially at risk, because they are more likely to come in contact with fleas and develop an infestation. They are also trying to grow, and before 16 weeks of age their bodies are not very good at producing new blood to replace what has been lost.

Older patients  (mostly small dogs and cats) can also be at risk, because they are often less able to groom themselves to get rid of fleas. Also, they are more likely to have chronic disease, which can decrease the ability of the body to produce new blood.

Signs of anaemia to look for include pale gums (normal is pink, with anaemia they can be white), listlessness, and in severe cases your pet may have cold extremities and a rapid heart beat. If your pet has any of these signs then they need to be taken to a veterinarian straight away, where they may need emergency treatment such as a blood transfusion.

If you notice large amounts of flea dirt on your pet, then you need to start flea treatment as soon as possible. Frontline spray is a good option for young pets, as it is licensed for use in puppies and kittens 2 days of age and older. For animals weighing over 1kg, Capstar also makes a good choice, as it provides fast-acting knockdown of all fleas on your pet within 6 hours.

If you have any concerns about your pet, then don’t hesitate to contact your local veterinarian. They will be able to advise you on your pet’s individual case.

To a flea free pet!

Dr. Simon

Photo: clevergrrl

Technorati Tags: anaemia, flea control, flea problem, kittens, puppies

Unless you have a very minor flea infestation, it almost always takes a few months to get rid of it no matter what you do. It doesn’t matter what product you use, or how many times you wash your pet. The reason it takes so long is due to the “flea development window”. If you understand this concept then you will save yourself a lot of frustration.

The flea development window is based around basic flea biology. Adult female fleas lay around 40 eggs per day. These fall off your pet into the environment, landing in areas like your house, car, and back yard. These eggs hatch in 1 to 10 days, and become larvae. These larvae then develop into pupae in 5 to 11 days. Fleas will remain in their pupa for anywhere from 7 to 174 days.

Flea control, for the most part, is concerned with killing adult fleas. If you are using any of the flea control products that I recommend here, then they are likely to kill 99.9% of the fleas on your pet. Unfortunately, they does nothing to prevent the development of eggs, larvae and pupae already in the environment. These will continue to develop and hatch, then jump onto your pet.

The adult stage of the flea is the “window” – the point in the flea’s life cycle that we can effectively intervene and reduce flea numbers.

Have you ever had a situation where you used flea control, and the problem seemed to get worse instead of better? You might think that it is a giant conspiracy theory, and the drug companies are lacing their products with flea eggs to keep you buying their product. Unfortunately the truth is much less exciting. This is the flea development window at work.

Sometimes the flea population is on the verge of explosion, with heaps and heaps of flea eggs, larvae and pupae in the environment. At this stage, applying flea control product is too late to stop the onslaught. The product will kill all the fleas on your pet, but all of those fleas in the environment will hatch and jump onto your pet over the next 3 weeks to 6 months.

You might be thinking “How does knowing about this change what I need to do for my pet?”. It all boils down to this: we can’t effectively kill all of the stages of the flea life cycle. We can only really do anything about the adult fleas. Every time a flea survives on your pet long enough to lay eggs, you are going to be dealing with another 50 or more fleas in a few weeks to months.

This really highlights the importance of using flea control on every pet in your household, every month, every time. Any lapses in your flea control strategy and you will have to deal with another few months worth of fleas on your pet.

Every day you delay in treating your pet is another 40-50 fleas (or much more!) that you will have to deal with in the future. Save your self the headache, buy your pets some flea control today!

To a flea free pet!

Dr. Simon

Photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/funkybug/

Technorati Tags: eggs, flea control, flea treatment, larvae, life cycle, pupae

Photo: PóDeTalco

One of the reasons that people find flea control so difficult is that they don’t have the right information. If you are operating under false assumptions, it is bound to end in failure. To help you understand your enemy and win the battle on fleas, here is a list of 8 common myths about flea control.

1. Dogs and cats are infested by different species

It is true that there are many different species of flea (almost 3000 in fact). There are species named after the dog and the cat (Ctenocephalides canis and Ctenocephalides felis respectively). However, these names are misleading, because almost every flea infestation in a dog or cat in Australia is due to the cat flea. In fact, there is some debate as to whether the dog flea might actually be extinct in Australia!

2. Fleas jump from one pet to another.

Once a flea has jumped onto its host and had a blood meal, they must continue feeding or they will die within a few hours. Rather than risk death by a mistimed jump onto another pet, fleas will remain on one dog or cat for their entire lives. It might seem like a flea has jumped onto your pet from someone else’s sometimes, for example after a visit to the dog park. What really happens though, is that fleas who have hatched in the environment have jumped onto your dog while it was playing (this takes less than a second!).

3. Indoor pets don’t get fleas.

Just because your pet is inside doesn’t mean it is immune to infestation. People can bring “hitch-hiker” fleas into your home. These fleas jump onto a human, mistaking it for a dog or cat. Once they realise they have made the wrong choice (our blood tastes funny), they will drop off and find a more suitable host. This is one situation where fleas will jump from one host to another. Screen doors also don’t present much of a barrier to fleas. If there are wild animals dropping flea eggs around your yard, and some land right near the door, then those fleas can easily make it through the screen mesh.

4. If your pets have fleas then your home is dirty.
Fleas are often associated with filth and vermin, and certainly can be found intimately associated with them. And sure, a lot of dirty, unkempt pets have fleas. But that doesn’t mean that your home is dirty if your pet has fleas. You can have a spotless house and still have fleas.

5.  Flea products will repel fleas, kill all of them in seconds, and you will never see fleas on your pet again if you treat them.

I like to call this the “magic bullet” myth. While I wish I could tell you that there is a product that does all of the above, the reality is that this level of efficiency is impossible. Some flea product repel fleas (eg. Advantix), but the majority of them don’t. Some products kill fleas pretty quickly (eg. Capstar), but even then it takes a few hours to kill all of the fleas on your pet. And even if you are using every single product under the sun on your pet, there is still a good chance you might see a flea from time to time. It takes less than a second for a flea to jump onto your pet as it walks by, so unless you and your pet live in a glass bubble, you will see a flea every now and then.

6. Putting your pets outside will help the problem.

This sounds like a good idea in theory – the pets have the fleas, so put them outside and the fleas will be gone. There is a slight flaw in that thinking – without pets in the house to jump onto, they will choose the next best thing – us! The better option is to apply a good flea control product, and keep the pets inside. As fleas emerge they will jump onto your pets and be killed.

7.  Treating the yard with insecticides should solve the problem.

Adult fleas are the main source of a flea problem. While they make up only 5% of the total flea population, it is the adults who lay eggs and continue the infestation. Only treating the environment might kill the eggs, larvae and pupae, but the adults will keep laying eggs and contaminating the environment. Treating you yard may be helpful, but it is only a small part of the solution.

8.  Once a flea problem is solved you can stop treating your pets.

If your pet has had a flea infestation before, chances are they will have it again. Fleas are present in your yard, neighbourhood, parks… basically anywhere an animal can get to, there will probably be fleas.All it takes is a couple of fleas to jump on and start laying eggs. Two weeks later there are several hundred fleas around and you have to start all over again.

Being informed is one of the best weapons in your flea control arsenal. Hopefully busting these false myths has helped you to understand your flea problem better and given you some ideas to help get rid of them.

To a flea free pet!

Dr. Simon

Photo: PóDeTalco

Technorati Tags: flea control, flea myths, flea treatment, misconceptions

When you are dealing with a flea problem, you need to have things pretty spot on (ha ha get it?). Even the smallest mistakes can end up costing you time, effort, money and flea bites. Here are some of the most common mistakes that people make when using flea control products:

1. Only treating your pet when you see fleas

Flea control is a lot like an iceberg. The fleas you see are only just the tip of the problem. If you only treat when you see fleas then you are going to be treating too infrequently. This will lead to treating your pet too infrequently. If you do this then some fleas will survive long enough to lay eggs and they will be able to continue their life cycle.

2. Only treating the animal who is itchy

Just like some people are more sensitive to mosquito bites, some pets are more sensitive to flea bites. Don’t be fooled into thinking that only the pet who is itchy has fleas. I guarantee you that any pets who live in the same area as the itchy one will have fleas as well.

3. Only treating during the summer time

It is true that fleas are more of a problem in summer than they are in winter. This is because the warm summer temperature means that they can reproduce quickly. And sure, fleas who are outside in the cold winter air may stuggle to survive. But almost every home is heated during the winter period. This means that the temperature inside your house is probably warm enough for fleas to live year round. Not treating during winter means fleas will slowly build up, and once spring hits their population numbers will seem to explode.

4. Stretching the interval between flea treatments

Everyone is tempted to extend their flea treatments just a little longer than the recommended monthly treatment. Flea control products aren’t cheap. Hoping to save a few dollars by spreading things out, sometimes we wait just a bit too long before giving our pet their required treatment. However, as it turns out, you will be costing yourself far more dollars and stress if you leave things too long and you get a breakout of flea infestation.

5. Forgetting a treatment

No one is perfect. Sometimes when we have everything else on our minds, our pet’s monthly dose of flea control manages to slip through the cracks. By the time you remember, it has been 7 weeks since their last flea treatment. Gaps like these allow fleas to complete their life cycle and continue to bother your pet. The easiest fix for this is to set yourself a reminder in your calendar on the first day of every month.

Untreated or infrequently treated pets can be the source of future re-infestations. Fleas that an untreated pet has will lay eggs that can infest any pet, including ones who are treated. Correct, timely application of flea control is essential if you want to win the battle on fleas.

To a flea free pet!

Dr. Simon

Photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jtyerse/208109946/

Technorati Tags: errors, flea control, flea treatment